Ahoy matey! All aboard the Empire Sandy for the second annual Indie Boat Hop craft beer cruise. Take a three hour journey savouring fine brew while enjoying the Lake Ontario breezes and the Toronto skyline.
There are two sessions available: afternoon or evening. Why not make it a full day and do both? I know of a few people who did it. Although, I haven’t heard from them since. Perhaps they were made to walk the plank. Yarr!
This year the event featured collaborations between Amsterdam Brewery, Great Lakes Brewery, Sawdust City, Bellwoods, and Bar Hop. The list also offered a cider from West Avenue Cider Company.
My top picks:
Clifford Little Mutineer (North American Pilsner) “Made with all pilsner malt and a German lager yeast, it has a medium malt body, a sulfate accentuated bitterness and a crisp dry finish.” (5.0% abv)
I’m normally not a pilsner drinker, but this one was delicious. Maybe because I love those hops and this particular sample was more hop-forward. I wouldn’t mind being trapped at sea with this.
Bellwoods x Great Lakes Brewery Bretallica (Brett Pale Ale) “Subtle and delicious, with savoury and fruity Brett-derived aromatics that mingle well with the tropical character of the Galaxy and Mosaic hops.” (5.0% abv)
Indie Alehouse Rubicon (Belgian Golden Ale) “Dangerously drinkable, this Belgian Golden Ale is 9% and boasts a stone fruit sweetness.”
From special hopped pilsners, session IPAs, to sour Belgian-style wheat beers, the menu made the lake-voyage less treacherous and that much more adventurous. 😉 Hard not to try new things when you’re trapped on a boat!
It’s a shame we don’t see more wine from Alsace in our market. The region offers a diverse range of wine styles whose common traits are an abundance aroma and flavour. I was lucky to have been invited to the glamorous Ritz Carleton to attend a seminar on Alsatian wine presented by Taylor Thompson, Wine Director of Toca.
Nestled away in the NorthEastern corner of France, Alsace finds itself in an ideal location. Following the Rhine River, it is protected by the Vosges Mountains, which makes this cool climate area one of the driest and sunniest regions in France – excellent conditions for grape growing. This wine producing area offers an array of grape varietals such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Muscat. If sparkling wine is more your style, you’re in luck! Made in a similar method as Champagne, a Cremant d’Alsace makes an excellent aperitif.
Alsatian wines usually don’t find themselves on the wine shopping list, especially when looking for a match with food. With a sturdy backbone of acidity, Alsatian white wine is commonly paired with fish but why not try the region’s Riesling with pork, or Pinot Gris with poultry, or Muscat with asparagus.
One of the problems facing the wines of Alsace is that consumers, in general, don’t know what to expect from the tulip-shaped bottles. The sweetness levels can vary between producers, often with no indications on the label. However, a new generation of young winemakers are pushing for dry whites which are more in fashion with consumer tastes. With all their travels and experience working around the globe, they are bringing fresh ideas and techniques to the region in an effort to further define Alsatian terroir.
Taylor Thompson, Wine Director of Toca
From the region’s history to a breakdown of soil composition, Taylor kept us engaged as we tried not to be distracted by the “cheese cave” close by in the restaurant. He led us through a guided tasting of the regional styles and what made them typically Alsatian.
Thanks, Angela Aiello, for the invitation to join this tasty learning-lunch! If only all my previous schooling was accompanied by delicious food and wine.
Blend of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois. This is a tart, simple, and refreshing sparkling wine. Light floral tones with plenty of citrus and green apple. Enjoy before a meal to get you salivating. Or, add a dash of creme de cassis to make a slightly modified Kir Royale.
Sylvaner is not a grape that I typically seek out due to its neutral characteristics. However, this wine offers more than expected; fresh herbs, pear, green apple, and a slight floral tone that is supported by a mineral backbone.
There’s a general misconception that all Riesling is sweet. When it comes to general Alsatian Riesling (Alsace AOP), it must be dry. With a softness to the texture, this dry Riesling highlights that intense crushed-rock minerality that can be found in wines from Alsace.
Fruit is sourced from hills around the tiny village of Bergheim. A mineral-driven, dry Riesling that exhibits a slight oily texture. There was a certain “Je ne sais quoi” mustiness to this particular example. However, it has an appreciable amount of lively acid carrying flavours green apple and lime.
Fruit sourced from older vines, this was one one my favourites in the flight. Concentrated, with great texture and weight. Textbook Gewurztraminer aromas and flavours. Packed with fruit and floral notes, the acid held it together happily.
Not the most refined example but there is plenty to enjoy. Exhibiting softer acid, an abundance of lychee, ripe apricots, and floral tones, this is certainly on the juicier side. Chill well.
If you’re looking to quench your thirst with something new and palatable, then I urge you to take your senses on an adventure with the diverse wines of France’s Southwest.
I was invited to attend a day of tasting of “les vins du Sud Ouest” in Montreal. Putting aside my slight (ok, large) fear of human flight, I loaded up on the free breakfast cookies in the Porter lounge at the Toronto Island Airport and boarded the plane to “sit in a chair in the sky”.
With those hard-earned classes with the Toronto Alliance Francaise, the day provided me an opportunity to practice my French. The tasting itself consisted of a media portion in the morning, and a walk around tasting in the afternoon. Each one of us could quietly move through the lineup put out before us, and after lunch we could mix and mingle with those in the local Montreal wine scene, as well as the various representatives from la France. It was great to run into Suresh Doss of Spotlight Toronto. Always nice to see a familiar face! Sitting down to write this post was a bit daunting at first as this is not a region that I’m too familiar with. In an effort to bring forth the best information, I rolled up my sleeves and hit the books!
Twitter street art Montreal-based artist Remi Beaupre
After exhausting my palate, I decided to leave the show for a couple of hours to explore the city. My wandering took me to a more colourful part of Saint Catherine’s street. I eventually settled myself in a cafe where I could sit and watch the city and wait for the more casual evening tasting event at a local spot nearby. I met a friendly urban artist along the way who was cataloging his latest street art.
The grand tasting @ La Société des Arts Technologiques (SAT)
Quick Facts
Located in the southwest corner of France between Bordeaux and the Languedoc-Roussillon
The Southwest is really an umbrella name for a number of scattered areas
These areas are influenced by Bordeaux, Southeastern France, and Spain
Rich in diversity, there is no one signature wine style that represents the region: dry, sweet, and sparkling
Home to a true mosaic of preserved native grape varieties
Topography boasts many rivers, valleys, hills, mountains, and forests
The history plays out like a great novel that spans the ages. There were the Romans, monks, pilgrims, Kings, elements of sabotage, and disease. A true old-school soap opera. Then again, isn’t that history in general? Take that Young and the Restless.
The Southwest is experiencing a rebirth. Here is centuries of history summed up in a few bullet points:
Romans planted vines in the area around 125 BC.
Evidence of wine vessels were found in Scotland and Spain suggesting a flourishing export trade of Gaillac wines as early as the second century.
In the Middle Ages Catholic monks began to tend the vineyards and make wines that were enjoyed by royalty and religious heads of Europe.
Pilgrims, heading towards Spain on the “Way of St. James” restored their physical and spiritual energy with the wines of Cahors and Gaillac.
Eleanor of Aquitaine, who came from the Southwest of France, married King Henry II of England. This really put the wines on the map and a flourishing reputation was born. Women can be great influencers of industry!
Blessed with many rivers, it was easy to export the wine to other European markets through the major port of Bordeaux
From the 13th century until the French Revolution, Bordeaux would blend its own wine with the the higher-quality wine from the Southwest, increasing its commercial success.
Heavy taxes were placed on wines coming through the port of Bordeaux leaving the Southwest at a great disadvantage, unable to compete.
The root-eating insect Phylloxera strikes and destroys vines throughout France, including those of the Southwest.
Grape Varieties
The Southwest contains a vast assortment of grape varieties, many of which have never left this home. This is what makes this region so unique.
sauvignon blanc, semillon, ugni blanc, mauzac, petit manseng, gros manseng, courbu, colombard, ondenc, baroque (not the music), loin de l’oeil, arrufiac
Whew…that’s a lot!
Exploring the Southwest
Cotes de Gascgone (the Tuscany of France)
Cotes de Gascogne en.wikipedia.org
Rolling hills, medieval towns, and distant views of the Pyrenees mountains, this is a wine-producing territory in the Armagnac region. Known to us as Gascony. Embracing a history of 2,000 years, approximately 75% of these wines are for export. Red wine is produced here but the focus is on white. Most of the wines produced are dry, crisp, aromatic whites, using local grape varieties colombard, gros manseng, sauvignon blanc, and ugni blanc.
Pronounced “guy-yak”, this is one of the oldest wine regions in France. Vines were first planted in the area around the city of Albi. I encourage you to look up the city of Albi. As one of the major centers for the Cathars in the middle-ages, this scenic “pink city” is steeped in rich yet tumultuous history. There is no signature wine to represent Gaillac to the international audience. With such diversity, you can really take your pick: red, dry white, sweet white, rosé, and sparkling. Whatever strikes your mood.
A specialized ring glass to enjoy Cahors wine
Cahors (Malbec’s hometown)
Pronounced “ka-or”. Malbec has gained fame by establishing a career in Argentina, but its home is Cahors. The wines are offten described as “old world” or “rustic” in style. This means that the wines are not as fruit-forward as their cousins in South America but rather displays more earth-like characteristics. Of course, like many things in wine, this is a generalization as you’ll always find producers going against the norm. The area of Cahors is another wine region dating back centuries and is for red wine only. The wines were a favourite of kings and royal courts throughout Europe. Going back in history, these “black wines”, as they used to be called due to their dark colour and tannic structure, were often used by merchants in Bordeaux to beef up their own wines when the vintages were less than stellar. Auxerrois, or cot noir, which is another name for malbec, may be blended with the varietals merlot and tannat. However, the blend must contain mostly malbec. Merlot is used to soften the wine winemakers are adding it more and more to create a fruitier wine, for earlier consumption.
“Blacker than black… In the Middle Ages, winemakers had a trick up their sleeves for making the wine even darker : they heated the bunches of grapes in the oven before pressing. This procedure has now been revived by one of the vineyards in the AOC area, which markets it under the name ‘New black wine’.” – www.tourisme-lot.com
South of the brandy producing region of Armagnac, Madiran is home of the indigenous, red Tannat grape. Established in the 11th century, this area also only produces red grapes. Whenever you see the name “Madiran” on the label, be sure that the wine is red. There is however, a small area for whites called Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh that overlaps the land. The wines of Madiran are often described as the healthiest of all the red wine types due to a higher level of “good-for-you” compounds. I don’t need much more convincing than that. Supporting the leading role of Tannat, other varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and fer servadou can be added to create a blend. What are these wines like? Typically the wines of the Madiran are deep, powerful, and tannic with a necessity to be laid down for a while before opening. However, there is a trend to create wines that are more approachable in their youth.
King Henry IV of France en.wikipedia.org
Jurancon
Creating a border between France and Spain, the majestic Pyrenees mountains keep watch over the vines, which are nestled into the steep rolling hills. One of the earliest appellation systems to have been created in France (1936), this higher altitude area is for the production of white wine only. The classic example of a Jurancon wine is moelleux (sweet) style, created from the late-harvested petit manseng grape. It is medium-sweet with balancing, refreshing acidity. Sec (dry) whites, are made from gros manseng with petit manseng and courbu added to create an aromatic, blended wine.
History has it that in the 16th century, baby Henry IV, the future king of France and who would also become one of the country’s most popular monarchs, had his lips moistened with a drop of Jurancon wine at his baptism in city of Pau. The wine was believed to have given him a blessing early in life that led to his spirit and success. It’s a shame that his luck ran out for he was assassinated later in life.
Quelle malchance…
After returning from a wonderful day “avec les vins du Sud Ouest”, I went to my local shop and picked up a few bottles that represent the various regions. My goal is to gather a bunch of my girlfriends for an evening of discovery. I’m sure that they’ll have a fantastic introduction. I hope to record the tasting for posting.
Of course, there are many more regions that I haven’t listed. I’ve highlighted the main ones that we see here at the LCBO.
If you want to dive deeper into the wines of the French Southwest:
One evening last week I awoke to see a koala bear sitting in a swaying tree with a piece of eucalyptus in its mouth. Confused for a brief second, I realized that I fell asleep in front of the TV. There was a documentary about the impact of urbanization on koala bear populations. I sat up and started to watch because who doesn’t love a cuddly koala bear. Earlier that day, I had attended a full-day wine workshop (is there any better kind of workshop?) hosted by Wine Australia. In celebration of this past Australia Day, let’s talk Aussie wine.
What do Canadians think of Australia? If I had to guess, it would be that it’s a hot and exotic country that speaks English with a cute accent, saying things like “g’day mate!”, and playing “footy”. Although home to many poisonous and scary creatures, it’s also a wondrous playground of sprawling beaches and coral reefs along the coast. Inland it encompasses rich mosaics of scenic landscapes and distinct ecosystems. Australia is a mixture of tropical and temperate climates sitting along side arid desert and, of course, bustling cultural urban centers. As a young teenager, I was lucky to have taken a trip to this land down under with my parents. I recall my father getting into a small scuffle with a kangaroo. True story!
Getting some perspective on size. Europe can easily fit inside this land down under.
How does Australian wine fit into the general perception of the Ontario consumer? I feel that Ontario wine lovers have pigeon-holed the wines both positively and negatively. This compartmentalization is a challenge, yet also an opportunity for selling regional Australian wine in the Ontario market.
Pewsey Vale’s Countours Vineyard
When you hear “Australian Wine”, what comes to mind? Shiraz! There is not a doubt that Australia has become famous for this red grape leading to both its popularity and now the apparent ho-hum attitude that we’re seeing towards it. Shiraz is no longer the most popular kid in school. Consumers have become charmed by emerging star varietals from other regions (Malbec from Argentina for example). Another challenging factor is one of style. We’ve seen Australian mass-produced value wines flood the Ontario market for years now, leading to the opinion that this is what Australian wine is all about. Juice that indulges in oak, opulent fruit, and a burst of bruisy ethanol. Whatever the opinion, positive or negative, there is something that Australian wine already offers the consumer – choice. There’s a reason that these wines have become so popular. Many of the wines are approachable and come at varying price points. Whatever the budget, there’s a wine for it. However, there are still many regional and varietal examples that are just sitting on store shelves, undiscovered. Can we make consumers excited about Australian wine? Can we change the public’s perception and widespread use of these umbrella descriptors? I think so! While there is always room for cheap and cheerful, Australian wine is a serious contender with premium high quality products that show a “sense of place”. Australia can convince the consumer that yes, they can have both value and regional expression. If stars in Hollywood are any indication, public opinion can certainly be swayed towards the positive – it just takes the right message.
Discovering Australian wine Photo taken by Sara D’Amato
Australian wines are going through some dramatic changes. They are beginning to reveal a more refined, elegant…cooler side. From the more restrained use of wood and malolactic fermentation, the whites in particular are showing a confident nervy backbone. Still maintaining the purity of the fruit with reduced alcohol, both the reds and whites demonstrate fresh, vibrant life with a superb underlying structure. A new generation of wine is here and I see this as a fantastic opportunity for Australia to showcase its cooler viticultural areas. With such a large land mass, varying effects of ocean, altitude, and latitude how can an entire continent’s wine industry be generalized by blanket terms? The message needs to get through. Highlighting this new renaissance of Aussie wines and introducing or should I say, re-introducing distinct geographical locations to Ontarians, will bring a more refined image to Australian wines. The good news is that more of these wines are finding their way into our market, at affordable prices. We want consumers to walk into the LCBO and ask their product consultants for the Chardonnays of Yarra Valley, the Pinot Noirs of Mornington Peninsula, the sparkling wines of Tasmania, the Rieslings of Clare Valley, the Semillons of Hunter Valley, and the Cabernet Sauvignons of Coonawarra – for example. Let’s start promoting these regions, and their unique take on varietals, into starring roles. See the new wines of Australia or should I say, the real wines of Australia unfold.
The Yummy Grape 